Saturday 1 November 2008

Don’t worry Papa


We arrive in Florence on Saturday and SWKB is anxious to go to mass, Saturday evening is her favourite time. It avoids messing up Sunday, for sure. At about 6:30 we arrive at the south east door of the Duomo, and find a mass in progress; strange since it was scheduled to start at 6:30. There are large TV screens including one outside in the Piazza del Duomo which show the proceedings. This looks like it is going to take a long time, so SWKB asks an official what is going on and reports back that the Pope is dead. There is a long sermon going on with occasional applause throughout the cathedral, but not much crying. This is a strange reaction for Italian Catholics on such an occasion; however, we go along with this explanation.
Back at the hotel, SWKB asks the receptionists if they know that the pope has died. No one is aware of this sad news. “Who told you this?” and “Were they speaking Italian?” Eventually, the comment was made: “don’t worry, we can make a new pope!”
It turns out that the occasion was the appointment of a new arch bishop, since the previous one has died some time ago.

Well, why not, madam



Italian waiters attend a special school. They are trained over many years. They know the correct procedure for handling any dish you care to mention, any cocktail or drink you can request. Entering the profession is never taken lightly. You may have to work under a true master for nearly all you working life before you can achieve the pinnacle of your dreams. When you are the head waiter of the Terrazza Brunelleschi, roof top restaurant of the Baglioni Hotel in Florence, you know all there is to know.
So when SWKB took it upon herself to specify how to make a pot of English tea, our dear host had the air of a Pope being told how to pray. "Could you please put the tea bag in the pot first?" He had obviously just bitten into a lemon, such was the expression on his face. "And then pour in hot water." He backed away, as if near a fire that was too hot. There was a pause. Building in his head was a frantic desire to reinstate the correct order. He was the Pope, we were the humble pilgrims. How could she possibly imagine that she could teach him anything? But the years of training, and indeed the very reputation of the Terrazza Brunelleschi itself were at stake here. After a long pause came the classic reply: "Well, why not, madam," uttered as if it clearly could make no possible difference to the outcome, but if madam wished to be humoured, then madam will be humoured. We were indeed served with a pot of tea in which the tea bag appeared to have been present before the water was added.
Needless to say the Terrazza Brunelleschi served impeccable food and generous helpings. The service was at the relaxed Italian pace that we had come to respect during our short time in Florence. Also of note are Ristorante Ciro and Sons (via del Giglio 28R) (see photo below), sporting a massive chandelier, family owned and run, extremely friendly in the way that only Italians can be. We were treated to a display of the children in their Halloween costumes whilst enjoying our lunch, at an outside table on the last day of October. Trattoria "Il Porcospino" (Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini) served superb Lobster, again in a friendly atmosphere.